Trollied Tuesday: English stouts

Further to my recent comments on Guinness and other Irish stouts, this blog would be failing in its public service remit if it didn't point out that there are plenty of good English stouts and porters available.

It's a matter that's been on mind of late following conversations with an Irish friend of mine in London, who isn't overly keen on English beers (I attribute this to an under-educated palate, but that's a matter for elsewhere) but who is keen to try something beyond the sometimes indifferently served Guinness you can get anywhere.

I suggested that he should try some English stouts and, noble and dedicated soul that I am, I've been researching the matter. One might, for instance, try the Titanic Brewery's stout (drink enough and you won't even notice the iceberg) or Samuel Smith's Imperial Stout (generally I can't abide that brewery's products, but I am happy to make an exception in this case).

Today, however, I came across something particularly fine. To aid my recovery from a stint of work over Easter, this afternoon I enjoyed a couple of pints of the Meantime Brewery's London Stout in the Duke of Hamilton in Hampstead. (Incidentally, I hope those of you have ordinary jobs enjoyed your return to work today, you were certainly in my thoughts as I sipped this smooth and zesty little stout) and I can say with confidence that the world is better place as a result. You can also find the stout in the pubs listed here.

The same brewery produces a stronger London Porter, a bottle of which I will be shortly enjoying. To be frank, I've never fully understood the distinction between stout and porter – they're both dark beers and they both taste pretty good – nor did I particularly care. However, Camra's website suggests that porter is simply a stronger version of stout, which acquired its name due its popularity among London's market traders. Wise old birds, those market traders.

In any case this porter is a serious drink. A couple of glasses of the stuff will soothe any cares you may have, revive the tiredest of bodies or minds and brings light into the darkest places of the soul. You will feel invulnerable, well able to take on whatever the world and its less congenial inhabitants might throw at you. It is, besides, excellent with oysters; a combination that will put lead into the most feeble of pencils. Take a glass at breakfast time if you have a day of waged drudgery ahead of you.

There is, however, one stout which is even better than these. It defies superlatives and any praise would seems overly effusive. And yet, once you taste Adnams Oyster Stout you will realise quickly the inadequacies of language. It my seem heretical – treasonous even, if you are Irish – but it is the sine qua non of stouts, the music of the spheres, the drink for which the gods themselves envy mankind. It's only available until the end of the month, so I urge you to do whatever is necessary to find some before then.

I've quoted this poem before, but since Dante never wrote about stout, only Flann O'Brien can possibly do this drink justice.

In time of trouble and lousey strife
You still have got a darlint plan
You still can turn to a brighter life -
A pint of plain is your only man.